Argyll and Bute Castles, Gardens Hold Clues to Scottish Ancestry

A verdant sea of feathery green surrounds me in the magnificently restored Victorian Fernery at Benmore Royal Botanic Garden in Argyll and Bute, Scotland. Warm, moist air that frizzes my naturally curly hair and dampens my skin envelops me. I hear the presence of a hidden watering system – an intermittent drip, drip, drip of gently cascading droplets – instrumental in creating the heightened humidity essential for the ferns’ viability.

Today marks my first visit to a fernery, an enclosed shelter providing the proper environment and protection for ferns. Since my first visit to the Scottish Highlands years ago, I’ve loved its lush, fern-filled landscape.

But, until this trip to Argyll and Bute, a council area in western Scotland where the legacy of the mighty and prominent Clan Campbell still holds sway, I’d never heard of a fernery. Coincidentally, Argyll and Bute also is the ancestral home of my Highlands family’s Clan MacDougall and Clan Stewart.

Scottish clans

Besides not knowing about ferneries, I also wasn’t familiar with the history of clans overall, and my own Scottish clans in particular.

In the picturesque village of Luss on Loch Lomond, I’ve bought a hand-size pamphlet titled “MacDougall” by Rennie McOwan. He begins…”The original Scottish clans of the Highlands and the great families of the Lowlands and Borders were gatherings of families, relatives, allies, and neighbors for mutual protection against rivals or invaders.”

He says the word clan derived centuries ago from the Gaelic language term ‘clann,’ meaning children, when communities formed around tribal lands. While the format of clans changed over time, at their best the chiefs and their families held land on everyone’s behalf, like trustees. Interestingly, you didn’t need to be related by blood to be part of a clan. If you pledged your allegiance to the clan chief, you could claim and use the clan’s name.

It seems uncanny – and since I’m talking about ancestry I’ll go so far as to say pre-destined – that many of the iconic attractions I’m visiting in Argyll and Bute this week reveal some awareness, some clue, some kinship to my Scottish clans.

More about Benmore fernery

In the fernery, masses of ferns inch along the ground, spring from rock, drape down walls, and line the grotto’s pool. Arcing, steel-framed glass panels let in brilliant, filtered light. The nearly cloudless sky visible overhead creates a sense of space. A hint of slickness glistens on winding stony steps, so I keep my hand poised over the wrought iron railing at right to steady myself as I climb up, down, and around and back out…just in case.

The fernery is a singular highlight in this spectacular mountainside garden, I’m also taken with the soaring elegance and drama of the parallel rows of giant conifers creating Redwood Avenue. Some 300 species of rhododendron thrive here. Regrettably, they’ve already bloomed for the year. However, I feel vindicated in spotting one of the garden’s rare red squirrels scampering across a wooded trail.

Takeaway from Benmore Royal Botanic Garden in Argyll and Bute

The familial link from here is remote, but I’m counting it anyway.

James Duncan, a previous owner of Benmore estate, constructed the fernery in the 1870s. He’s buried in Kilmun Graveyard at Kilmun Church in Argyll and Bute. Argyll Mausoleum, where most of the Dukes of Argyll, Chiefs of Clan Campbell, are interred, is on the same property. When the wife of the Chief who began the burial tradition in 1442 died, he remarried Margaret Stewart. The name Stewart (also Stuart), an Important Scottish family, comes from serving as stewards of the kings’ treasuries. The doomed Mary Queen of Scots was also a Stewart by birth.

A bad hair day certainly is worth this newfound information.

Inveraray Castle and the town of Inveraray

Driving to Inveraray, the ancestral seat of Clan Campbell in Argyll and Bute, from the north on the A83 road showcases the two money shots, even on a gray, misty day like today.

First, I see a panoramic, linear view of the town overlooking the banks of Loch Fyne, Scotland’s largest sea loch. The 3rd Duke of Argyll founded the town in 1745. It’s a virtual stage set of symmetrical, clean-lined Scottish Georgian architecture. Who knows? Perhaps the exposed brick buildings painted stark white with dark trim inspired the similar, but contemporary, home design motif that Magnolia founders Chip and Joanna Gaines favor.

Crossing over a stone bridge, I glance right. There stands Inveraray Castle, commanding and formidable. Despite its exterior’s solidity, multiple turrets suggest an almost fairy-tale-like presence.

The 2nd Duke ordered the design of this stately mansion. It’s majestically situated between the loch and a sweeping Argyll and Bute landscape of immaculate gardens, dense forests, and rugged mountains. The 3rd Duke laid the foundation stone of the current castle in 1746 to replace a former dilapidated fortress. Construction finished 43 years later.

Inside Inveraray Castle

The first public room, the state dining room, is a highlight. The elegant space features a waterfall chandelier overhead, gilt “galleons” on the table made in Germany, and a silver punch bowl from Queen Victoria. Next, at almost 70-feet high, Armoury Hall displays a daunting arsenal of 16h and 17th-century muskets, axes, broadswords, dirks, and daggers.

Supposedly, every castle is haunted. Inveraray Castle’s MacArthur bedroom is no exception. According to family lore, invaders murdered a young harpist and left his body on the bed. Staff comment on an eerie chill, and it’s said occupants hear harp music when family members are close to death.

An exhibit of ceremonial garb sits on the landing of a grand stairway. Built-in, glass-fronted cabinets protect orderly rows of ornately patterned dishware in the china room. The Campbells last used the original kitchen in the 1950s. They restored it to the Victorian period, with two stewing and roasting stoves, two baking ovens, and a spit. I wouldn’t be surprised if the highly polished copper pots, pans, and molds glow in the dark.

During World War II, thousands of Allied troops secretly practiced amphibious landing exercises on Loch Fyne to prepare for D-Day landings in France on June 6, 1944.

Takeaway from Inveraray Castle

Knowing Scottish clans often clashed, my visit prompted me to Google the relationship between my Clan MacDougall and Clan Campbell. I read that during the Wars of Scottish Independence in the 13th and 14th centuries, the MacDougalls battled with Robert the Bruce. That led to Clan MacDougall’s fall from power and Clan Campbell’s rise to power. As a result, they became habitual enemies.

I’m relieved no Campbell stopped me from touring the castle.

Rothesay Castle

Just a five-minute ferry ride across the Firth of Clyde from Colintraive on the mainland takes me to the Isle of Butte and its chief town, Rothesay. Thanks to that brief “cruise,” it’s probably the most accessible island in Argyll and Bute. In addition, Argyll and Bute with its Isles is the second largest area in Scotland following the Highlands.

Then, a scenic stroll through the waterfront of this seaside port and an uphill walk on city streets bring me face to face with the impressive ruins of Rothesay Castle. It stands seemingly oblivious to the surrounding urban development of today.

I’m proud to learn my high stewards-turned-royal-dynasty Clan Stewart constructedd its first frontier fortification on this site. They probably used earth or timber. They also possibly built upon existing Norse fortifications. By 1230, the family had constructed the circular sandstone wall. Later, they added four, large round towers and a gatehouse, all to defend against Viking raiders. It became a royal castle when Robert II inherited the throne.

A water-filled moat, which added an extra layer of defense, still encircles the fortress. I walk all the way around the moat on a sidewalk before entering the castle on a wooden foot bridge.

What especially strikes me is that the same rare and glorious circular wall still encloses the castle. Tall arrow slits are visible. The castle looks mighty and fearsome, especially considering its advanced age. During its heyday, Norsemen must have experienced paralyzing qualms at the prospect of attacking such a monolith.

The courtyard, once with outbuildings and a buzz of activity both defensive and domestic, is peacefully grassy. Beyond, I see remains of a 15-th century chapel.

The Great Hall, added later, accommodated the high-status occupants and their guests. Now, it contains interpretative exhibits outlining the castle’s history.  A film re-enacting battles with the Vikings plays on a continuous loop. I learn that lands here in Argyll and Bute were once was part of Norway. To my surprise, the film mentions a vassal to Norway’s early King Haakon from Clan MacDougall.

Takeaway from Rothesay Castle

I hit the jackpot here, gleaning information about both my clans. Days later, I find that England’s Prince William and Princess Catherine are Duke and Duchess of Rothesay. I certainly lay whatever claim I can to that illustrious connection.

Mount Stuart mansion

Mount Stuart, the ancestral seat of the Stuarts of Bute, is also on the Isle of Bute in Argyll and Bute. One of the most visited homes in Scotland, the property modestly bills itself as “a 19th-century mansion with extravagant interiors and expansive gardens.”

The original house dated from 1719. A fire in 1877 severely damaged the structure. Most of the contents survived, along with the Georgian-style wings of the building. The 3rd Marquess of Bute retained the wings as part of the new Mount Stuart. A new Victorian gothic mansion rose, phoenix-like, in the middle between those Georgian wings. He built them in the late 19th century over the course of some two decades.

There’s no denying the marquess’ “palace” is an impressive feat of architecture, construction, and innovation. One of the wealthiest men of his day, the marquess spared no expense. His extensive travels helped inspire his vision.

The interior reflects the marquess’ passion for history, astrology, art, and mythology. Notably, Mount Stuart was the first house in Scotland to be wired for electricity. In addition, it boasted an early telephone system, a lift, and a central heating system. It even had a heated indoor swimming pool.

Red lights bathe the chapel’s ceiling.

Gothic colonnades made from a couple dozen kinds of rare marble support the 80-foot-high vaulted ceiling of the aptly named Marble Hall. A map of the stars made of glass crystals set into the stone decorates the ceiling. Georgian fireplaces salvaged from the earlier Mount Stuart flank the dining room.

Back outside, the 300-year-old gardens (Wee Garden, Kitchen Garden, and Rock Garden among them) contain thousands of plant varieties, statuary, and fountains. I wander through this verdant sanctuary in shadowy afternoon light. Frankly, my stroll brings a welcome visual and sensory reprieve from the house’s uber bold interiors.

Takeaway from Mount Stuart

The family descends from the greater Clan Stewart, although, unlike my branch, they preferred the Stuart spelling. I’ve read that some call the house’s design and decor “magnificent, luxurious, a wonder, a captivating confection.” I do admire the marquess’ boundary-breaking determination to realize his dream home. However, I find its unrestrained flamboyance a bit off-putting.

Nevertheless, I stand here agape. I’m a long-distance and future-generation fellow clan member, taking in the spectacle of this historic and influential site in Argyll and Bute.