My fingers are itching to fondle the rich, carnation-red ruffles on the silk organza gown by Oscar de la Renta that Beyoncé wore in the March 2013 issue of Vogue magazine.
I’m mesmerized by his pink cocktail dress in silk gazar festooned with ostrich feathers, sequins, and rhinestones. The lucky mannequin adorned in this fetching confection is rotating in 360-degree precision before a gilt-edged, 18th-century mirror.
I’m even imagining that Oscar de la Renta created the custom, blush-pink evening dress with sequins, beads, appliqués, and lavish back bow for me instead of for Taylor Swift, who actually wore the gown in 2014 to the Charles James: Beyond Fashion Costume Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
My fashion reveries certainly are in full swing at The Mint Museum in Charlotte, NC. I’m in the midst of The Glamour and Romance of Oscar de la Renta, a showcase of nearly 50 ensembles by the late, celebrated, award-winning, and influential New York-based designer. This exhibition is on view through Aug.19 at Mint Museum Randolph, a building from 1836 that originally was the first branch of the U.S. Mint.
While I’ve seen multiple displays of iconic and culturally significant fashions – from Princess Diana’s voluminous wedding dress in London’s Kensington Palace to the First Ladies’ inaugural ball gowns at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. – this marks the first time I’ve attended an exhibition devoted exclusively to a single, grand master designer.
Outside, sunny Charlotte has reached its first 90-plus-degree temperature for the year. Inside, cool air circulating in the darkened galleries provides welcome relief from the heat and humidity. Mint Museum Randolph purposely dimmed the lighting to help protect delicate fabrics from fading and fraying. Strategically positioned spot lights bathe the looks in gentle illumination. Overall, the effect is heightened drama in keeping with Oscar de la Renta’s stellar stature in global fashion.
Fellow visitors, both women and men, are speaking with reverence and awe in hushed tones. Briefly breaking the library-like quiet is a young girl, casually attired in short shorts, T-shirt, and flip flops, who understandably declares in open admiration, “Oh, yeah. Oh, yeah.” when she first enters the gallery.
North Carolina’s own André Leon Talley, former editor-at-large for Vogue and lifelong friend of Oscar de la Renta, curated the exhibition. He sourced the fashions from de la Renta’s personal archives, the archives of French label Pierre Balmain, private lenders, and the Mint’s own collection.
The Glamour and Romance of Oscar de la Renta follows two other shows of his works that Talley curated in recent years – a blockbuster for the Museum of Fine Arts in Houston and another for the de Young Museum in San Francisco. Charlotte’s version is the smallest of the three, yet Talley said it’s his favorite because it’s a more focused presentation – the best of the best.
The world of Oscar de la Renta
The illustrious Oscar de la Renta, who died in 2014, lived in, worked in, and created a rarefied world. His clientele included a wide range of celebrities, First Ladies, business leaders, aristocrats, politicians, socialites, and media. Annette de la Renta, his wife, was his ultimate muse.
Born in the Dominican Republic, he blended his Latin roots with European training. His hallmark was making women look and feel beautiful. His creations were colorful, feminine, luxe, and extravagant.
From a video playing in the background, I hear Talley explain his friend’s magic. “The foundation of his work is his great dressmaking and craftsmanship, yet when you see an Oscar de la Renta dress you see the woman first.”
Oscar de la Renta’s couture and ready-to-wear pieces far exceeded the boundaries of my budget. Even so, I’m enjoying a mental game of “what if “as I stroll through the galleries with my guide, Rebecca Elliot, The Mint’s assistant curator of craft, design & fashion.
I wonder…What kind of outfit, if I had the means, would I have wanted Oscar de la Renta to custom design for me? How would it fit? What color, fabric, and embellishments would he use? And, above all, how would I look and feel in it?
I read this Oscar de la Renta quote on an informational wall panel: “What I try to do in my design is to make a woman dream.” I’m sure I’d have responded accordingly.
Rebecca brings me back to the here and now as she talks about Charlotte’s role in fashion and the themes of the show.
“The Mint Museum has a long history of support of fashion, and Charlotte is a great Southern fashion city,” she explains. “We have a strong social scene with galas, debutantes, and luncheons. Oscar was well suited for the atmosphere in Charlotte, with lighter colors, garden themes, glamour, and romance. People here are less into wacky fashions.”
The exhibition conveys several themes: the garden, Spain, and Eastern Europe. The creations range from elegant day wear to resplendent evening gowns. Additionally, the exhibition honors the late Marianna Sheridan of Charlotte, who befriended the designer and became the first archivist for Oscar de la Renta LLC.
In the Garden room, a soundless video projecting the lush grounds and European-style grand allées of his estate in Kent, CT, provides a vivid backdrop. A pale blue, 19th-century wooden wheelbarrow from the Netherlands lends a touch of earthy realism.
Florals, muted and tropical colors, and exquisite details dominate here. The fabric design of a cocktail dress references the historical pattern in Marie Antoinette’s bedchamber at Versailles. A silk taffeta evening skirt with colorfully striped ruffles unexpectedly pairs with a white cotton J. Crew shirt. A silk faille evening dress in deep purple features silver riders on horseback crafted from metallic braids and beads.
Fashions in the Eastern/Spain room are opulent and exotic, accented by reproductions of two paintings: El Jaleo by John Singer Sargent, and A Boyar Wedding Feast by Konstantin Egorovich Makovsky. A wool and sable shawl drapes over a Victorian-inspired wedding dress. A black and gold evening dress once worn by supermodel Karlie Kloss evokes imperial Russian robes. Elements of Spanish art, bullfights, and flamenco are recognizable. The character of Scheherazade prompted a glittering, midriff-exposing bodice.
The Evening room highlights gowns in various shades of pink, anchored by a gown with an expansive, layered skirt of yards of silk tulle. A capelet of silk organza flowers tops a regal dress with a subtle train. Narrow ribbons crisscrossed on the mannequins’ feet suggest the illusion of sandals.
An adjacent room offers an epilogue. Several pieces from the house’s subsequent designers attest that the Oscar de la Renta legacy continues.
Musings on my fashion style
Perusing such an arresting array of attire, I reflect on my own sartorial choices.
Over time, I’ve distilled my daily wardrobe into versatile, minimalist basics. Not a single floral print, ruffle, flounce, feather, or bead resides in my closet.
Consequently, my list of travel staples is even simpler: what I can coordinate, wear, and care for with ease on the road and pack into a carry-on rollerboard, especially for extended stays. A neutral palette – black above all, with some navy, khaki, and white. Splashes of color from supple jersey tees and scarves. Dark, cigarette-leg denim jeans and slim black pants. Black four-seasons blazer. Geometric prints – stripes and polka dots.
Perhaps Oscar de la Renta might have supported my simplistic approach to dressing, for he also famously said, “It’s not about what you wear, but about how you live your life.”
